Biaggi's: Inexpensive eats in an uptown atmosphere

      What I like best about Biaggi's, a vast and stylish new chain restaurant in West Des Moines, is that you can go there for an inexpensive night out and really feel like you've been somewhere. Others must appreciate this, too — the waiting list was long the nights of our visits (fortunately, they take reservations). Here are some clues to what may be packing everyone in:

MENU: Extensive and inexpensive. Choose from pizza, pasta, seafood, chicken and meat options in a variety of traditional and inventive takes. At dinner, pastas and entrees range from $6.95 to $17.25, with plenty in the lower half of the range.

TOP FINDS: Yes, you can get your breaded and fried calamari, but for something off the beaten path, try the grilled version. Here, The tender meat topped a good mix of greens, with fresh tomatoes and a full-bodied balsamic-laced dressing in the lusty hot-cold mix.

At last! I've found a lasagna that's much like versions I've enjoyed in France and Italy. The Lasagna Tradizionale brought a classic bolognese (meat and tomato sauce), but instead of the usual heavy loads of ricotta and mozzarella clogging up the dish, a rich cream sauce nestled between the layers, making it all luscious instead of just plain cheesy.

Biaggi's also gets high marks for offering a few desserts that go beyond big, ooey and gooey. Sure, if you want a gut-buster, you can order the ample and sweet Chocolate Chip Banana Paradiso Cake, but for something that artfully contrasts the generally heavy entrées, try the simple but lovely Semifreddo. This version is sort of like an espresso float: a scoop of vanilla ice cream in a short glass of espresso with a little whipped cream. It ranks among the few desserts in town that will make you feel better for eating it, not worse.

PRETTY GOOD: Sweet, roasted shrimp surrounds a fresh-tomato-tossed angel hair pasta for the delightful Shrimp Oreganata. At first glance, my eyes nearly popped out of my head at the windfall of lobster that arrived on the rich and satisfying Fettucine with Lobster.

ATMOSPHERE: Here, in a place where many entrees go for under $10, Diners are treated to an uplifting, uptown ambience. Domed light fixtures cast a warm, ivory-golden glow over the stylish dark-wood furnishings. Sumptuous touches include a huge stone fireplace, cozy alcoves and a gleaming built-in wine cabinet running the length of one room. White tablecloths (albeit topped with butcher paper), drape the spacious tables.

BOTTOM LINE: A lot of people look to be having a lot of fun — for not a lot of money. And who doesn't like to see that?
 

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